Hoy Brazil!

May 20, 2011

Leaving Argentina



The peace that comes with being so high.



Hello. Goodbye.

Four months. Snap.

Backpacking thru Patagonia, Studying in Buenos Aires, Living with a family, making friends, and traveling sola. Yo conozco Argentina. Fui a Puerto Madryn, Bariloche, Calafate, Ushuaia, Mendoza, Tandil, Iguazu y Salta.  And now the time has come to say goodbye yet again, an act I feel I am beginning to perfect.





Having grown leaps and bounds as a person, a spanish speaker and a traveler- I love this country. I have learned a wealth of knowledge about life and love and what it means to journey through this time on earth. As I sit at the airport in Salta waiting for my 6am flight to board I take notice of my emotions and my current state of mind. My heart rate is normal, I´m not perspiring, no tears are forming...

Estoy Lista.

…………..

 

Change of perspective.


Three planes and 18 hours later… I arrived in Santa Catarina- an island off the coast of southern Brazil! Staying at the greatest hostel I´ve ever been in right on the ocean front. A huge beautiful breakfast with fresh juices and a wide rainbow of fruits with sandwiches, homemade swedish pancakes, and lots of love! Plus free beach toys from beach balls to kayaks and surf boards and not to mention a staff that makes us feel right at home and helps us with any of our wild touristy needs. And Mansuki, the papa chef, cooks an INCREDIBLE dinner a few nights each week so we all can sit and eat toghether. Reminds me of Mama Mario a bit. They even plan trips to show us around the island and parties to show us the night life… well long story short- they are just great. Welcome to a new home.



Saturday May 21st

 

Our beach. We are located on the right side of the bay.
Ocean view from my top bunk!

If interested in hostel see:
http://backpackersfloripa.com/backpackers/


My first day I walked out barefoot and went for a run along the coast, stopped for some sand yoga after I found some treasures (shells) and then decided the water was too good to look at- so I jumped in! WOW. Hello Atlantic! Feeling so comforted to be back on an island and running in the sand I cruised back to the hostel collecting trash along the way. God always seems to supply me with a plastic bag as I begin the rubbish rounds- knowing I will fill it to the rim.

Resting around the hostel making new friends, I met a kind man from Mexico and we went on a walk around the small beach town as I practiced my Spanish and he his English. I have been able to communicate more or less with the Brazilians. Portuguese and Spanish are similar enough if one speaks slow and uses an abundance of facial expression and hand gestures--- something close to the main message can be retrieved.

I told my new friend about my 6 lovely ladies back at home and how someone basically daily bakes cookies. After missing home, my girls and the sweets. I made a quick stop by the supermercado and gathered all the necessities.

I offered a few Auzzie friends some cookie dough and they looked at me quizzically. When I explained to them it was normal to eat cookie dough, they tried at bite and enjoyed it but didn´t come back for seconds.  Same with the English. Maybe us Americans are doing something wrong? Or something SO right! Mmm… I love the dough just as much as the finished product :)

Back to the hostle I whipped up a batch of vegan banana oatmeal chocolate chip cookies and… they were the BEST cookies I´ve ever made! Honest to goodness they were divine. Thin and moist and crispy on the edges but soft and chewy in the center- needless to say I made many friends that night as I spread the cookies around the hostel family.



Sunday May 22^nd

Lake and Samba

The next day I took a stroll and did some beach yoga again before taking a bus to a boat across the lake. Recommended to me by Mansuki, I enjoyed this little tug boat ride that was managed by Brazilian men who only spoke old Portuguese and whom had been working the same structure of floating wood since before my parents were even capable of reproducing.



Sitting on the dock of the bay...

Sweet and slow we boated past dozens of kite surfers and I became lost in the hillsides. Un-accesible by cars, the hillsides are scattered with homes right at the lakes edge. Each with it´s own pier taking the place of a drive-way parking garage. A handful of them for for sale signs and my mind played with the idea of living out here.

Literally this time, all alone. Peaceful front lake property surrounded by tropical rainforest.  I arrived at dock 16 and headed out to the cachoeiras- waterfalls. A small stroll through a collection of houses and a handful of shops- dock 16 doesn´t come close to being a “town.” Then a little hike up the hill and there I was. Waterfalls. Wild how falling water is so soothing and wonderous. A trickle in comparison to Iguazu of course, but an elegant place to rest, drink my tea, eat my lunch and read a little.

Coming back to the hostel was dinner night. Everyone eating the big BBQ together with a special mix of veggies on the side for me. After a talk about the mysteries of love with an Auzzie, it was time to go SAMBA! Off we were tin the hostels own VW van to a local hot dance spot. I danced with a handful of partners, most of whom were Brazilians. Dancing really is like a 3 minute relationship. Well one type of relationship- a type where the man leads.

My first and I spun in circles, slow circles but I couldn´t feel him leading me- too soft. Another one just moved his hips wildly and was more interested in being sensual than following the moves of Samba. Another man who stood over me at 6´4 was way too hard- literally put his hands on my hips and pushed them side to side- whoa buddy. Then there was the non-moving man. We stood there and made maybe three circles the whole song. Then there was the teacher- he counted and showed me a few moves.

Then… Mr. White Golf hat man- stole the show. He was both strong and smooth, gentle and considerate, noticed when I was off beat and shared a few new steps with me. He was SO happy! I wasn´t too comfortable with my Samba technique but having dance experience I could follow along. “Tranquila Tranquila” he would say. Not having had many great dance partners in my time- I am used to being the leader. Not this time, I had to slow down and just listen with my body to his lead. That is the key in partner dancing: having a man who knows how to lead and a woman who knows how to follow. Also, having a man who supports the woman. The man may set the foundation for the dance, but the woman adds the flair. Once I told him I was from California I swear his eyes lit up all the more and his hat almost flew off. I felt like telling him not everyone from California is a movie start, but it didn´t matter- we were Samba-ing!

All in all I´ve been thinking about this whole “travel” thing.  As with anything- it is what you make it. And as with anything (extreme the obvious extremes of course) there is no right or wrong. I had to take care of some buissness stuff today, but then I headed off to soak up the sun and the knowledge from my book. After a dip in the ocean I laid upon my sarong again and thought “Is this ok?” I am in Brazil and here I am, just napping on the beach- I should be out “doing something.” Then my father´s words came out from my memory file and said “It´s not what you do, but how you do it.” True.

Happy Pose!

What it comes down to is my happiness and the happiness of those around me. As long as my actions are elevating both- all is well in the world. Yes, there is something to be said for taking advantage of the unique opportunites here like the activities- tours- and local lands. But it is also just as important to take advantage of the open time, free responsibility and relaxing environment I am in. I could go on a tour and be pleasantly entertained all day or I could spend all day on the beach resting and exploring my mind. Both are good options and both are readily available here and now- where they may not be so easily accessible back at home.

Monday May 23rd

Now my fourth day at this hostle I have grown closer to the folk here than at any other hostle I´ve been too. Seeing people come and seeing people go. It has been a perfect set-up for a social study. Life in the hostels are different than life everywhere else. EVERYONE is on the move and it is expected for everyone to continue being on the move- but for the time, here and now, the majority wants to have a good time. And what often comes with having a good time- is spending time with others. People are open to being friends and many want you to come along on their adventure for the day. All eating, sleeping, playing in the same space makes an environment conducive to a more rapid growth of relationships.

 

A local artist spreads the love.
There are hearts on trash cans, telephone poles, sidewalks, ect...
All in beauty and clear view for all who pass by.
I wonder how many people see them?



As I was laying in the soft white sand today, I realized all the more (I feel like I write this in every one of my blog posts, but it is a lesson I continue to learn…) Love is all that matters. It is the essence of life and life is all the brighter with love in it. First love of oneself in necessary and then when the right person comes along at the right time- sharing that love and life with another is incredible. A type of travel in and of itself. There has no doubt been times on this trip where I have thought of having a lover with me, or even sharing in this journey with friends and family. I think it is normal to want to share the beautiful things with beautiful people. Get their perspective of the same things, allow your energies to mix and let yourself radiate because of thier contagious joy.

I spoke last night with an Australian friend and we shared some of our own love stories as we were open to eachother´s viewpoints/ advice. That has been one of the most glorious things about traveling- people open up. I am not sure if it is because they are more relaxed or because they know we are going to split ways anyways so why not just let it out and see what happens. Or if it´s just a way to pour the information out in hopes of becoming friends faster. Or if it is because we are all away from our usual support circles... that we utilize eachother for that loving assistance.

Perhaps it´s a mixture of it all.

Tuesday May 24^th

Survivors!
Brazilian style and for 2 hours only...
can they make it???



 Ten friends and I embarked on an hour and half hike up and over the hill sheltering our hostle. Through the jungle trail and guided with our very own River guide (a sweet dog who lives on the street and walked with us the few miles to the beach. 

Meet River. AKA Mr. Incredible.
Upon returning home we opted to take the bus
in the mist of the cool night and...
they did not allow 4 leggedfriends aboard.
The next day and after navigating 6 miles on his own-
River was once again at our doorstep.
GoodBoy!

After making it past the Tarantula and Ant Hills with the vicious attackers on the forefront (my friend accidentally stepped in one, thus tearing down their civilization in a single step and recieving a stinging foot for the rest of the day in rapid karma.)



Buena vista from the top of the world.

 On the other side there was a long white coastline with sand so soft it felt like walking in powdered sugar. Upon arriving, there was one Brazilian man with his sidekick (who quickly became River´s best bud) and not another soul in sight. All the men united over the round object filled with air and played soccer for hours. Amazing how something as simple as a ball can unite a group of people and offer stimulation them for hours.

The men played soccer as the woman sat in the sand and spoke of Love. We laughed at ourselves for realizing how gender sterotypic this was- but I suppose some generalizations hold truth.

 Wed May 25<sup>th

Joaquina Beach- Sandboard Time!
And...
the perfect place for photo shoots and reflection on the Majesty of Nature herself...</sup>
Exploring the dunes with a sweet canadian chica, two cute swedish ladies, two charming german men and a friend I made at the Samba dance night... we had ourself one sandy fiesta!  

We found something fun along the way;
although a bit one sided
they could support us :)

   

The little boy is without a doubt the best part of this picture-
He came out of nowhere!



Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.  ~Kahlil Gibran


My first time in mountains of sand!
I felt like I was in the Sahara!



Climb the mountains and get their good tidings.  Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.  The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.  ~John Muir





If at first you don´t succeed...

 

Dust yourself off and try again!



"The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man."

 

And the night just got better!
This incredible woman makes these bombom chocolates by hand in her kitchen
(which fortunately happens to be right next door to our hostle)
and they come by nightly to sell them to us. 12,000 they sell during the month of January!
Mmm only 1.50 real (so like .75 cents)
The best chocolates I´ve EVER had. Period.
Plus... Mr Chocolate man knows I´m their biggest fan and calls me sweet things ;)


And then...
I adapted fully back into the island way of life.
A life I am all to familiar with, but have desensitized myself to after living in Buenos Aires for four months and traveling around south america- on the go go go solo.

My view for the past 10 days.

A beautiful wonderful time of rejuvenation and peace. Self exploration more than local exploration. After a few days of settling in I became fully comfortable with il bel far niente- italian for "the art of doing nothing." Walking, swimming, eating, playing, yoga-ing, friend making, dancing, reading, writing, ect... The art of doing nothing.

A new perspective on the art of traveling as well. Staying in the same beachside hostle for 10 days provided me with a unique opportunity to say hello and goodbye plenty of times, as well as see how the mixture of backpackers directly create the atmosphere. Party troops to beach side tanners to fellow nothing doers, there is an ecclectic arrangement of people on foot that are circling the world. And to live with them, eat with them, share stories and good times with them has been a true joy indeed.

As I speedily type this blog entry I await my carraige that will transport me to the next adventure. I will fly to Rio today and begin my two weeks at a WWOOF yoga camp. I will off the web for that time and will fully indulge in the 4am daily meditaion, yoga, good food, beautiful people and perfect nature that I will soon be introduced too.

Here´s to continuing the journey.

Success!

I so needed that. To make cookies, but really to make a bit of home and spread the love. It satisfied my sweet tooth as it pleased my heart. Then when I gave a friend a massage- Kyria was alive and glowing! I realized that really, “home” can be anywhere. What is important is to remember what makes me “me” and then nourish that. Wherever I am (although the ocean may not always be at my doorstep) I can be right at home. More than anything, it is about a mindset. Allowing myself to ahhh exhale and rest. Allowing myself to let it go and be open to possibility and the goodtimes around me.

Thoughts of Amor as the Sunlight washes my hair.

Love is alive.
It needs to be welcomed, openly accepted, and nurtured.
If you have it- give thanks and support it.

Love is whatever you make it.
It can be one night. It can be a lifetime.
It can be messy. It can be magic.
It can be everything, or it can be non-existent.

It is your choice and your responsibility to decide what role Love will play in your life.
If it will take the lead or be left to playing "Man number 3 in the cafe window."
You decide.



To love oneself
 is the beginning of a lifelong romance.
- Oscar Wilde


The key to attaining the perfect love for you, is to find someone with a similar understanding of Love.
Free love, strong love, fun love, wild love, reliable love, experimental, family, friend, short, holy, ect... The possibilities are as endless as the people who seek it.

Sharing life, time, energy and soul with another is an experience all should be so blessed to know. But it is not the only experience. Truly loving oneself first is the foundation that can support fully loving another.

Each with our own backgrounds, beliefs, alignment in the stars, and living environments we create our own unique needs of love and ways in which we express it. If we are able to identify what our needs, desires and love languages are then we are all the more likely to satisfy our heart´s longing because we will be able to relate each of those to our lover. How could we ever satisfy a hunger we cannot identify? While some may be deeply intune with their instinct and thus be able to offer you exactly what you need, exactly when you need it and how... the majority understandably need a little assistance.

 It is like going into a restaurant and assuming the waiter already knows what you want and how you want it prepared. Sure it is their job to bring you the yummy food that you are craving, but how could you ever expect them to make that choice for you? It is an unfair pressure to place on the server and it is also likely to end in dissapointment for you.

Some believe that "true love knows all" and while this may be true, sometimes even the truest of love needs a little nudge in the right direction.  If you are not satisfied in your relationship, it is only you who can mobilize the change that is necessary. Just as one places a request at a restaurant, it is not rude or demanding to ask for what you need. Sharing that with your lover is often accepted with respect that you know what you want and admiration that you are helping them to supply that for you.



Your task is not to seek for love,
but merely to seek and find all the barriers
within yourself that you have built against it.

- Rumi


We are all Love Servers. But if we want to be truly pleased with the love we recieve, we have to make our request clear and deliever it in a way that the server can understand. Once we are able to do this, and on a regular basis- we take away much unnecessary pressure and dissapointment. The game of gambling has no place beyond the poker table and absolutely should not be applied to a treasure as valuable as Love.

In the case that the server cannot supply what you are asking for in the present moment, I see only two options. The first, change your order and be equally as happy with the new dish or the second: Leave and find a new server that can satisfy your needs.

As in any relationship from the tides of the ocean´s sea to the bond between two beings- there is a give and take. To serve and to be served in the fullest joy, aiming to please your lover and offer only the most delicious and nutritious specials of the day. Mmm... if only Love came with a menu and cookbook.
But where is the fun, exploration and creativity in that?

Little (long) Life Update.

Backtrack.
How it feels that so much has happened over the last 2 weeks. Pictures seemed to work well last time, lets try it again.


Feb 23rd

Tomar un Te with sweet Li at our Felicidades

Feb 24th



I passed this tradition on the way to school.
Once someone finishes their final exam at the university their family and friends greet them in the courtyard with a shower of eggs, flour, vinegar and anything else they find in their kitchen. It is also normal to cut pieces of their clothes and even their hair!
Meanwhile the Janitor sprays you and the sidewalk, with expertise as this happens all too often, in an effort to wash the almost cake-like batter off of campus property.
How is that for a congratulations?





We got locked in the classroom.
 Literally. Right after the teacher left the wind slammed the door shut and we spent a good 10 minutes shouting for students or teachers to come and save the day. Finally the hero (Jeff seen above in picture) kicked the door in and it swung open. Success.
Interesting social experiment, lock 16 hungry college students in a room and see what happens.

Making my first big buy all in spanish I was proud of my achievement!
 Then the salesman followed me outside and asked me to go out, semi creepy- semi flattering

All in all, a good decision for so many reasons:
1. Can talk to my loved ones anytime anyplace.
2. Free to release my inner mind via blogging.
3. I am now one of the 21st Century.
Bienvenidos.

Feb 25th

If someone says money can´t buy happiness, than they´ve been spending their cash in all the wrong places. This 2 peso (.50 cent) pastry made for the perfect start to my day. Mmmm.... as satisfied as I´ve been with breakfast since the divine awakening of Mama Carol´s cookie dough.



    

After School we went exploring and were attracted to a man selling these on the street. He told us his story as he began selling those little circle things (arts and crafts in 2nd grade toys) that you put a pencil in and then twirl around to get a wild spiral maze like design. Do you know what I´m talking about?
Well he starting selling those many moons ago, and naturally got bored after a while, so he started playing with them himself and then got the idea to make these.

For only 10 pesos you can get a beautifully handcrafted (glass square) to use as and incense holder, coaster, or table top decoration! I loved them because many were styled with Om signs, astrology symbols and mantras in sanskrit.
I began to ask him about the history and translations of these symbols and he was filled with excitment. For over an hour we sat there crissed cross applesauce, as comfortable as we could be on the sidewalk and talked all in spanish about shiva, yoga, and various spiritual teachings. Enjoying his company but also ready to move on to different adventures, Li and I tried our best to signal we were ready to leave, but I think he missed all our clues.

An Argentine man, passionate about this topic (and if I may say so myself) equally as thrilled to have 2 cute girls paying attention to him, he talked and talked.
I left after an hour and a half with 6 little glass art thingys, 2 full sheets of paper filled with recommendations of contacts, you tube videos and books to read, as well as a new appreciation for all the people that cross my life´s path.



Then the most incredible (and a bit expensive...) white mocha!
Yes count them, five layers.



When I got home my most favorite spanish practicing buddies greeted me.
Segundo y Juana.
Tonight was a sleepover!
It is amazing how comforting children are for me. The freedom to be a kid, scream, play, run around (non-stop) and just have fun! Unburdened by the weight of the world and living purely for the satisfaction of each moment. Sweet youth.





We had played with colors, which I used as art therapy and they used to make a mess :)
Segundo drew a portrait of me that is now hanging on my wall and is a perfect resemblance, if only I had an orange head, four fingers and was cross-eyed.

We then had a funny face competition:
Juana

Segundo

And, yours truly.
Hmm... maybe Segundo´s picture of me really wasn´t that far off...

There were monsters under my bed that night.

And sweet angels too, it´s alright you can say it
"Awww so cute!"

Feb 26th

Saturday Li and Ki Explore the City!

We went to see the largest bookstore in all of South America! Over a million people walk through its doors annually. Now known as El Ateneo, it was first a theatre named Teatro Gran Splendid in May 1919. When threatened to be demolished, others had a better idea. Books anyone?
  

There is something for every one! The only challenge is to find it...

Lights, Camera, Action!
By far the most beautiful librería I´ve ever been in.
They even have a cafe on stage and still-intact theatre boxes available for use!
A transport to another world, found within the pages you hold.



We cooled off with some icecream (me-Li)
Honestly the ice cream is SO GOOD here! Big and smooth and creamy, they make it an art piece as they mold the two flavors together, toppling over twice the height of that back in the states. Mmm...

Then we went to see our first movie here in Argentina!
"El discurso del Rey" aka "The King´s Speech."
The movie itself was wonderful and the whole experience too. We were underdressed in regular skirts and Ts, and had failed to wear our jewelry and make-up as well. People looked as though they were going to a live theater performance, not one that had previously been filmed.
It was in English (as most movies are here) with Spanish subtitles (great for practicing!). I began to think about how much power America has over the world, yes military, economic and so on and so forth, but even just pure entertainment. I love foreign films back home, but those are a treat, not something that is enjoyed every time I go out to see a movie. But here the vast majority of films are from the USA. Unless it is like this one pictured above, a preview of Ricardo Darin´s next film "Un Cuento Chino" ;)

 Feb 27th
(See "I´m in Heaven" Blog Post. Day at the cafe.)

I cooked! This was the first time I chopped, sauteed, mixed and baked since I´ve been in Argentina and it was healing. But two challenges came forth:
One, Rosario my host mama hates garlic, her grandmother told her at age 7 that "Women never eat garlic." Since then she has obeyed the law and now it has forever been banned in the house. And two, the onion I bought at the Chinese store, along with the rest of my groceries in an effort to support local business, was sad & mushy when I cut into it.
 So already at a disadvantage with my 2 number one ingredients mama mario has taught me to begin every dish with... I hoped an extra dose of good vibes would make up for it. And it did! Home-made spicy tomato sauce with baked acorn squash and peas. In the pursuit to fill each lunch with my quota of color and veggies for the day.

Feb 28th

Choosing to follow my heart today after school it led me to a bookstore. There I found "Almost Moon" by Alice Sebold (author of The Lovely Bones), among a limited selection of novels in English. Nearly one week later now, I am almost done with it! Anyone who knows me, knows that this is quite the news :) I love to read, but often lack the time or find another book and begin to start that one before I finish the last one. And here I am almost done with a 300+ page book in 7 days! I feel like a nerdy 3rd grader who finished a picture book all by themself, but honestly I´m excited. Both the fact that I have nothing but time here and that this is my only novel is most surely responsible for this change in reading patterns.

Later that afternoon I met with a man who offered me a job in the middle of the street (not as creepy or bizarre as it sounds, I promise) I decided I didn´t really need nor want to work. Grateful for the opportunity (to get paid to help translate emails into english), but choosing instead to bask in this special time in my life. I have never been so unrestricted before and for these next few months, I want to keep it that way.
"Following my heart" home I walked and walked and walked until I came upon a familar coffee shop that is right next to my school (which is a one and a half hour walk AWAY from my home).

 In the noise of my mind and the excitment flowing off the street, captivating all my senses, I had walked in the OPPOSITE direction. Just when I thought I was figuring my way around the city. But all was well, just a prolonged adventure home :) So I hopped on the next bus and read the first chapter of my new book.

March 1
HAPPY NEW MONTH! Wow, one and a half months have officially gone by. This is now the longest I have ever been away from America. Previously living in Thailand for a month last summer, I have set a new record for myself and will continue to be here (it looks as of now, but who knows what the future has in store...) until the start of August. Five more to go :)




Miss Katie (backpacking girlfriend) and Emily (new favorite person!) and I shared this sweet and uplifting fresh homemade Ginger-Mint-Lemonade from Felicidades. We studied for our final and made the final countdown... only 3 more days until the end of class!

This super cute little girl became a splendid distraction from verb drills. We played a ceaseless game of "come get the sugar packet" until she became more interested in the "throw sugar packets out the wondow" game. Barely one and a half she was full of life and had yet to learn many social customs. She stared at me, played with strangers, gave her barbie doll away and threw things out the window. All things "you are not supposed to do" but I love that she did. If only we could keep some of that pure human curiosity and openess with us until we turned 2, or 20 or even 100.

 March 2nd
(See "Beyond the Bus" post)

and lots and lots of studying for my written spanish final the following day!




March 3rd
After 2 solid hours of taking the spanish exam, I was done. I stood up with that light dazed and confused feeling that a world exists beyond the paper I held in my hands. So intently focused on each question, all else had been erased from my present consciousness as I escaped into the passages, verbs and vocab within that 8 and a half by 11 inch universe.

Noon and not much on the to-do list I walked to the park where friends and I practice Yoga on a weekly basis. I found a nice tree and used it for back and emotional support as I dived right back into an alternate universe. This time into a world where a daughter kills her mother and begins to come to the realization of what she has done, along with the many consequences slowly but surely coming her way. "Almost Moon" is a dark but, honest reality, and the whole story takes place in one 24 hour period. I am captivated.

After about an hour passed by, the tree was more uncomfortable than comfartable as I felt like a creaky old woman rising to my feet. I decided I would walk home, a new way. There is a vast nature reserve on the outskirts of Buenos Aires creating the border between the city and the Rio Plata. As well as a series of parks. That became my destination: Something green.

I walked down side streets, going into stores that sparked my interest, not feeling pressured to buy anything but only to observe and possibly strike up a conversation with a porteño shop keeper. When I first arrived in BA I would walk on the main avenues, feeling safer with the mighty buildings surrounding me and the never ending stream of people walking with and against me. Now I avoid them.
The maddness of it all and the energy of go-go-go is unpleasant for me. Instead I move a few streets in towards the heart of the barrio and that is where it´s at. Real people, living real lives. Homes and cafes and panderias decorating the sidewalk. Low buildings and lots of trees. People walking at half the speed and double the tranquilty than their counterparts just a few blocks up. I feel relaxed and someone here. Not just another person lost in the crowd. Here in the backstreets people say hello.

My friend who sells fresh fruits and vegetables on the corner every day all day. This is about as close as it gets to "farmers markets." Scattered around the city are little crates and tables with your "five for the day" ready to be purchased. This man´s son is quite the charmer, whistling at ladies double or triple his age. He just started 2nd grade on Monday. Summer is over for the children of BA.

Walking along Libertador, I spotted an older woman with her unleashed dog. Or should I say the dog spotted me? This dog stared at me as I walked down the block, holding my gaze for a good 30 seconds. I believe there is much more to animals than we know.
  I stopped at the stoplight and asked her what her dogs name was. "Tigre" she replied as her face lit up. Tiger and her walked slow and in unison, she in front and him following steadfastly behind. Walking as they have together for the past 16 years.

Nice sign combo: JFK + Liberty.

Drawn to an old building across the street, I drew closer to check it out.

I had arrived at el rosedal de palermo.

Security personnel to ensure no dogs entered and no people stepped on the grass, helped to keep everything in pristine condition. Spotted with head sculptues of war heros, poets, politicians and others who did something worthy to have their head forever looking upon people looking upon them.

Something particularly sweet about this man´s glasses and mustache combined.

Love was in the Air.
These gardens are so romantic. Everyone walking around or sitting on a bench in pairs.
Mothers with daughters, best friends, lovers... and me and my book :)

I found the perfect spot to stop and rest for a while. I laid on the bench by the creek and began to giggle out loud. I was so happy! Here I am in Argentina, in the most beautiful park I´d seen in the country, just finished my final, had a good book in my hands and the warmth of the sun sinking in through the protection of the trees leaves above me. Pure delight. Not to mention I was in the prime environment to ponder the subject of love once more.
I was totally satisfied.

After some time had passed I said see you later, and continued my walk. This time exploring through the Palermo Woods.
Another magical place, but this one simply trees upon trees upon trees.

Continuing on once more, I came across the Museo de Arte Popular. At first I thought to myself, "I´ll come back later." Then a strong cord inside me vibrated, "Carpe Diem!" So I did. Paying the hefty 1 peso entrance fee (a quarter) I wandered inside.

As I studied the intricateness of this face, I felt as though it could come alive at any moment.
In 9th grade we did an art project similar to this where we made masks using our own faces in Mrs Rockwells class.
I can only imagine all the time and energy put into this one.

After 4 and a half hours, I made it home. Now with a newfound appreciation for all this city has to offer and all that still remains to be discovered.
Back to here and now: Time to study for my oral exam tomorrow!



March 4th

Mi final dia de este clase! Today was my oral test and it went great! Telling a story with a partner all using different verb forms in the past tense + a little bit of Q and A.

Everyone waited in the hall until it was there time to perform. Meanwhile, I led a little mini post final yoga session with a few classmates against the bright lights and shiny floors.

I got an A! Yeah!
I guess the trick is to spend most of my time wandering the streets living spanish ´rather than reading about it in the book :)

 (In the heat of all the excitment I left my book in class and returned hours later to find it gone. I do hope it appears again pero si no lo encuentro, creo que es bueno suerte de yo perdí mi libro en la última dia!)

Sweet teacher Mercedes.
¡Muchas gracias por todo!



No eggs and flour for Emily and I!
We´ll stick with the American pat on the back tradition :)
PS: check out all the flags, this really is an international school



My celebratory party took place in this nearby health foods store.
Gifts for myself from myself include:
Chia Seed
Flax Seed
Bee Pollen
and a whole grain + quinoa alfajor!

Saturday March 5th
One of the Best Days thus far.

I woke up and wasn´t quite sure what to do.
Class is over.
It is Spring Break. Many of my friends are outside of Buenos Aires, having opted to go on a trip before our Mendoza trip. ( I decided to save my money now and use it for my 2 months of travel post school :)
And it is Saturday.

I was greeted with a huge wave  of possibility and indecisiveness as I thought about my line-up for the day. Having slept in running shorts and a sports bra, I allowed my costume to guide the way. Tennis shoes tied, shirt on, hair up, half a banana eaten, teeth brushed and feet out the door.

Rewind: I Run. Back at home I run regularly. And I enjoy it. Since I have arrived in Argentina I had yet to run up to this point. As wild as that sounds to me, not going on one single run for a month and a half, I know why. Everything has changed in Argentina. Of course the core of who I am is still the same, but many of the decorations surrounding that have adapted to this new environment.

Walking has become my Running. I walk much more here than I do back home. Hours everyday exploring the city, getting from point A to point B, and getting lost, with a smile. Also with walking comes both the security of having my backpack with map, keys, H20, book, ect and also the liberty to stop, sit, read, buy something. Since I walk slower than I run (which I think is the case for all mammels...) I see more. Walking gives me the priviledge to see the little things, to turn around if I choose, say hello to someone, or pick up trash. 

But today was a day to run! I wrote a little note to Mama Rosario describing my path of destination and approximate time of return, just in case I vanished in the mist someone would know which mist to look at first. Sounds a little dramatic, but true and I think a small note informing someone/anyone of your location (especially when you are outside of your normal home) can literally be a life saver. But that is just mama ki talking.

After saying Buenos Dias to the neighbor, I pulled open the apartment building door with the golden handle and entered my fast track sidewalk. Right Left Right Left Right Left, my feet were moving at a faster pace than they had for some time now and they loved it! The memory of running pulled closer now as shoes hit the pavement. My breath, focus, and pace in alignment.

Dashing across the white striped crosswalks, weaving in and out of people, and hopping over holes in the road I headed for grass. Feeling a bit out of place in the middle of cars, people and tall buildings, I was comforted when my feet hit soft green ground only 5 minutes later. I ran back in direction of the Palermo Rosedal Gardens where I had previously been on Thursday. Running through the Palermo woods and arriving at the gardens I hopped on the path made especiallly for runners, roller skaters, bike riders, ect.

After about 30 strides had passed I heard music, loud music. Then I saw it.
At least a hundred porteños dancing, following a dance instuctor onstage and following his moves so as the whole crowd looked like a synchronized pop band. The inner dancer in me, hopped over the runners barrier and inched closely to the crowd. Hesitant at first, and then feeling that is was open to anyone, I jumped right in!
I felt like I was back in my cheerleading days, counting out moves to the count of 8, and dancing in sync with everyone around me. Not only was it so much fun!!! It was quite a sight to see. Nearly everyone in their exersize clothes, almost all older than me (much much older than me) and even men in their 60s+ in normal clothes stopped and joined the performance.
Our instuctor did not hold back. Vibrantly gay and pushing us to the limit so that we could be mistaken for a wildly excentric group of Beyonce´s backup dancers. Oh yeah we were getting down. Really.
So simple and so wonderful, this program is put on by the city of BA and is called Buenos Aires Hacer Deportes (BAHD). Get an enthusiastic dancer, put him on stage, get a large sound system and the rest will work itself out. People would run/skate/walk or bike by, stop, and join!
This was much better than a typical dance party. Having the man on stage directing you made it all the more enjoyable, no one had to think about theit next dance move or feel self-conscious. We were all doing it, together!
In the perfect outdoor, breezy setting, rockin music and fun dance moves, one could feel the energy grow light with joy and freedom. Everyone needs to have a little exercise, fresh air and get down their bad self. This was the place to do it.
After an hour of that, it ended. I walked along to find a group of people stretching and I asked them what they were a part of "Buenos Aires Correr." A group where you meet weekly with locals and run together + it´s free to join! How wonderful.

I took my time and walked home, not sure if I felt light headed and a bit dizzy from the humid, ecstatic dancing or the half of banana that had long ago been digested. 2 and a half hours later I arrived home with one incredible run and dance performance in my pocket. I was reminded yet once again how the universe provides if only we trust in it. Our job is to take that first step.

The day only got better as I hydrated with this beauty.
(and yes we drink out of gold rimmed glasses here :)
A whirled up a concoction of banana, milk loads of ice, chia and flax seed and then topped off with some bee pollen.
¡Energía deliciosa!

Then my spirit was recharged after a good skype session with Pops and then another with a sweet soul sister of mine.

And best for last...
MoonLight Yoga!!!
Wow. It was soooo good.
I had been googling yoga in BA when I came across and invitation titled "Moonlight Yoga." Need say no more, I was already hooked. I sent an email right away to reserve a space and looked forward eagerly for this night to come.
After missing the stop I hopped off the bus, ran across the street hopped on the same bus going back in that direction and then hopped off at the right stop (barely) 2 minutes later. Nervous to be walking alone in this foreign part of the city after 9 o´clock at night, I took a breath said a prayer and followed the light sound of music. These tunes got louder and louder as I opened the door and knew I had arrived.



 Buena Onda Yoga! Tonight was an intimate gathering of less than 20 people and together we did an hour and half of yoga accompanied with live soothing music, followed by a vegetarian feast fit for the kings! There was a lot of love and good vibes circulating with extra leftover for a second serving. There was also a camera crew there and they were shooting and episode for the tourist channel! The host sat next to me and asked me some questions and I answered with as much suave and grace as I could muster. A little interview all in spanish! If you happen to be in Argentina in April, turn to the tourist channel and you may catch a glimpse of me doing yoga!

Mango Lassi with homemade (the night before!) natural yogurt!
Miss Meghan was the star chef and is going to be having weekly thursday dinners at her home.
Count me in!

I was very excited about the Whole Wheat Chapatis and apparently the woman next to me was too :)
ps: can you spot the heart?

Vegetable Curry with Basmati Rice Potato, Chard (Mmm Chard!) and tomato stir-fry
by far the best meal I have had here since that sandwich in Be Frika, actually- this was better.
For dessert we had Tres Leches Cake and fresh homemade Chai.
Mmmm divinity.

I am practicing yoga everyday. Often times sola, being lead by a friend. or leading a class myself in the park or classroom hallway (and anywhere in between). But being here tonight in a real Yoga studio with candles, our own mat (with a fresh flower on the front) and a certified teacher made all the difference. I absolutely love teaching yoga but it is a whole different experience. In following I am free to get lost in my own breathe, focus on my own angles and just be. One of the more challenging classes I´ve ever taken, my heart beat raced, I sweat, I breathed and I came down again. A rejuvenated person, cleansed of stale energy. I think I took my deepest longest breathe that night.

An all around beautiful gathering with many new friends made. One of which was the brother of the yoga instructor and is also a student studying here. We talked and it turns out he lives one block down the street! Crazy wild world :)
Four of us said our goodbyes and hopped in a cab to go home. John is a kind man from Chicago and is spending 10 days in BA. Upon leaving the cab he left us with 50 pesos to to go towards the ride. As I was the last one to get out, the total was less than expected, coming in at 45 pesos. So I gave the driver the extra five as a tip and the flower the studio had given me. He looked surprised and I said "Para tu mujer."

Un día perfecto.
me encanto la vida